John Hamer Projects
Outdoor TV Cabinet

I started by building the side and top pieces of the main frame. These are items 1 and 2 on the cut-list above. I used 2x8 inch pressure treated lumber. This was requested by the person I made this for, but something like cedar would probably be a better choice for it's weight and weather/insect qualities. I used 3.5 inch deck screws and construction adhesive to hold the frame together.

Next I made the back-board supports and attached them to the frame. These are items 3 and 4 on the cut-list above. I used 2x2 inch pressure treated lumber. You will need to measure the inside dimensions of your frame for exact lengths. You will also need to measure the thickness of your back-board material so you know how far to offset these from the back of the frame. The idea is for the back-board to sit flush with the frame. I used construction adhesive and 2.5 inch deck screws.

Next I cut the back-board to fit inside the frame. This is item 5 on the cut-list. The material I used was plywood siding. I used construction adhesive and 2 inch deck screws. Your screw length may need to change depending on your backboard thickness.

The final part of the construction was the doors. They are made from items 6, 7, and 8 on the cut-list. I used the back-board supports and the frame with the help of some shims to align the doors and keep them square. The center two pickets will need to get trimmed to size. I used construction adhesive and 1.25 inch deck screws. My build video at the bottom shows how I did this.

I found some fence gate hardware at Lowes to fasten the doors to the frame. I also added a locking latch. You will need to use a wall mount to fasten the TV to the cabinet. There is only about 5.5 inches from the doors to the backboard. If this is not enough, you may consider makeing the frame with 2x10 inch boards. This cabinet was designed to hold a 55" TV, but check the dimensions before building!